Sensible holistic skincare engineered with regenerative french biotechnologies

Delly Bezoss

The worldwide cosmetics market has undergone a metamorphosis lately, with an increase in pure, respectful and secure cosmetics for folks and the surroundings. This transformation has been catalyzed by the COVID-19 pandemic and by the dazzling success of recent digital-native manufacturers, the so-called “indies”, which have reinvented the market codes and eventually disrupted beauty markets because of their means to attach with shoppers, particularly the millennials, by direct communication by social networks. Pure and sustainable magnificence is of nice curiosity to the youthful era. In line with Mintel, 25% of US 25-34 years-old customers of skincare fearful concerning the environmental influence of their skincare merchandise (versus 19% total) {1}.

One of many pillars of pure and sustainable magnificence is for manufacturers to formulate components from pure, sustainable and moral sources. Nevertheless, there’s at the moment a shift in the direction of the usage of science-backed lively components, associated to the rising demand for security, transparency and confirmed efficacy from shoppers. Shoppers at the moment are self-made beauty consultants and the usage of inspirational extracts is now not sufficient to make a beauty product interesting. In line with Mintel {2}, 40% of US magnificence and private customers agree that manufacturers must do a greater job of explaining what components they use and why.

Biotechnology is the usage of dwelling organisms to develop pure and sustainable technological options. It permits the event of pure components extremely concentrated and purified in bioactive molecules, increasing the vary of lively components out there to beauty formulators. GREENTECH, a French biotech group, has been dedicated for 30 years to develop such pure lively components from sustainable and moral provide chains, because of cutting-edge applied sciences, to revive pores and skin and hair well being with a holistic method. Utilizing bio-guided fractionation, GREENTECH phytochemists develop lively components titrated in pure bioactive molecules or concentrated fractions from pure sources (vegetation, algae, microorganisms, sourced all around the globe because of a global community of producers with whom Greentech works instantly and to proprietary microorganism/microalgae collections), beforehand recognized by the group’s biologists for his or her means to modulate organic pathways of curiosity for the focused beauty exercise, which is confirmed and substantiated by a collection of invitro​, ex vivo​ and in vivo​ research. This strong method, supported by articles printed in worldwide scientific journals, permits the group to supply to beauty manufacturers dependable lively beauty components.

Bio-guided fractionation to purify regenerative lively moleculesfrom medicinal vegetation

At In-Cosmetics World 2022 which was held in Paris in early April, GREENTECH unveiled MYRALYS, which illustrates its 30 years of experience in phytochemistry, inexperienced extraction and bio-guided fractionation and the implementation of sustainable and moral sourcing. MYRALYS is a COSMOS-certified natural lively ingredient, extremely purified in gentiopicroside (iridoid glycosides), sourced from natural wild yellow gentian roots to rejuvenate the higher and decrease eye contours. Gentian roots are concentrated in bitter-tasting iridoid glycosides, that are already studied for various medicinal purposes (hepatoprotection, remedy of diabetic retinopathy, …) {3} however not for eye contour care. Sustainably and domestically harvested in France by gentian-pickers educated in good harvesting practices, the roots are strictly chosen by GREENTECH scientists primarily based on their gentiopicroside content material in an effort to obtain a extremely titrated extract because of a sophisticated purification course of. To counteract eye contour getting old, MYRALYS targets six interconnected organic pathways in line with a multipathway method. It stimulates NRF2-mediated cell antioxidant response, to restrict oxidative stress and oxidation reactions concerned in untimely pores and skin getting old and the formation of superior glycation end-products (AGEs). MYRALYS additionally modulates three interrelated pathways: it limits irritation and VEGF-A-mediated angiogenesis whereas it promotes lymphatic capabilities by stimulating VEGF-C launch. MYRALYS reduces the formation of AGEs, by stimulating Glyoxalase-1 (main detoxifying enzyme which particularly neutralizes the extremely reactive aldehydes concerned in AGEs formation) and by totally neutralizing the UV-induced formation of CML (main AGE). Lastly, MYRALYS reduces dermal matrix getting old, by stimulating collagen I synthesis and by defending elastic fibers from UV-induced elastin degradation. Clinically examined on volunteers with aged higher and decrease eye contours, MYRALYS lifts droopy higher eyelids (smoother pores and skin, much less folds) (Determine 1) and rejuvenates under-eye contour by lowering darkish circles, eye baggage and tear trough severity, with seen and vital ends in simply 14 days of use (and confirmed after 28 days) (Determine 2). MYRALYS is a potent pure answer to offer a complete eye contour rejuvenation, for a time-defying look.



Determine 1. Lifting impact of MYRALYS on droopy and wrinkled higher eyelids in simply 14 days



Determine 2. Rejuvenating impact of MYRALYS on the decrease eye contour in simply 14 days

GREENTECH additionally utilized bio-guided fractionation to one of the crucial used medicinal vegetation within the Polynesian pharmacopoeia: Microsorum grossum​, a tropical fern. Regionally referred to as Metuapua’a​, this fern is taken into account as an adaptogenic plant (i.e. entire physique stimulant) and is historically used to deal with many illnesses, together with pores and skin issues (use of the fronds) {4}. Its medicinal properties are linked to its richness in phytoecdysteroids corresponding to phytoecdysones. These phytomolecules are produced by the fern to guard itself towards bugs, as they strongly and prematurely activate molting resulting in damages to bugs {5}. GREENTECH scientists had been bio-inspired by this fern and took benefit of its defensive mechanism to develop REVERSKIN, which is a potent pure lively ingredient titrated in phytoecdysones and polyphenols, extracted and purified from sustainably harvested Polynesian Microsorum grossum​. REVERSKIN advantageously replicates the defensive mechanism of the fern by strongly and safely activating regeneration of deep pores and skin layers to effectively and visibly reverse the indicators of pores and skin getting old. 3D reconstructed full-thickness pores and skin fashions engineered with fibroblasts from younger or outdated donors revealed the potent regenerating exercise in aged pores and skin of REVERSKIN, which targets one of the crucial age-sensitive pores and skin constructions: the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ), linking dermis to dermis and regulating homeostasis of each compartments. REVERSKIN acts on 4 key parts of DEJ, in the direction of higher group, cohesion and stabilization of DEJ. In aged pores and skin and considered a results of DEJ enchancment, keratinocyte self-renewal capability is tripled and dermis thickness is doubled after remedy with REVERSKIN. In comparison with younger pores and skin mannequin, REVERSKIN reverses age-related dermis thinning processes, appearing as a bio-inspired pores and skin deep regeneration booster. Clinically examined on volunteers aged 40 to 55, REVERSKIN restores a younger pores and skin micro-texture, totally reversing pores and skin anisotropy noticed with age(Determine 3). Pores and skin firmness and moisturization are each elevated, strengthening pores and skin and stopping wrinkle worsening.


Determine 3. Impact of REVERSKIN® on floor isotropy of aged pores and skin

 “Mind-skin axis”-modulating biomolecules from ayurvedic vegetation to energise pores and skin and temper

Psychological well being and self-care have been recognized as rising tendencies in cosmetics, propelled by indie manufacturers encouraging shoppers to expertise wholesome existence and to share their achievements on social networks. In line with a Beauty enterprise survey in 2020, 95% of shoppers need magnificence manufacturers to assist causes associated to psychological well being and main worldwide manufacturers have additionally began to focus on the intimate connection between pores and skin/hair points and psychological well being. Right this moment, there’s a actual client consciousness concerning the function of cosmetics in serving to them to really feel higher past simply making them look higher. Alongside the rise of sustainable magnificence, holistic magnificence is awakening.

To have interaction manufacturers in holistic magnificence, GREENTECH developed CIRCALYS,​ impressed by conventional ayurvedic medication, backed with latest researches on the neuro-immuno-endocrine capabilities of pores and skin and the connection between pores and skin and mind, the so-called “brain-skin” axis {6}. CIRCALYS is a pure lively ingredient titrated in andrographolide sourced from inexperienced chiretta Andrographis paniculata​ leaves, which is a significant detoxifying plant in Ayurvedic conventional medication. CIRCALYS reduces the impacts on pores and skin and temper of fatigue induced by trendy off-beat life. It modulates pores and skin circadian clock, by restoring a “younger” invigorating clock gene expression profile in outdated/drained keratinocytes and by appearing on circadian modulators associated to key mobile pathways. CIRCALYS extends cell longevity, reduces cell damages, selling pores and skin revitalization. CIRCALYS additionally acts as a “brain-skin” axis booster, enhancing oxytocin, endocannabinoid and endorphin signaling pathways to chill out pores and skin. Clinically examined on night time/shift employees throughout 28 days, CIRCALYS was proved to considerably cut back facial seen indicators of fatigue (much less under-eye wrinkles, elevated pores and skin radiance and luxury) (Determine 4) and the impacts of fatigue on temper: the sensation of well-being was boosted, the perceived stress and the unfavorable have an effect on had been diminished (“yoga-like” impact on temper). CIRCALYS is a chrono-detox lively ingredient offering a “really feel good energizing” impact, connecting skincare and thoughts care.


Determine 4. Impact of CIRCALYS on facial indicators of fatigue (under-eye wrinkles, boring tone, incomfort)



Pioneer in biotechnology, GREENTECH creates high-tech lively components from pure sources from plant, marine and microbial worlds. GREENTECH’s improvements symbolize confirmed and sustainable alternate options, primarily based on balanced relationships with native producers all around the globe, within the service of future generations. We supply nature to useful resource the long run.


  1. Di Gesu R (2021). A 12 months of innovation in facial skincare, 2021. Mintel.
  2. Du L (2022). Magnificence disruptors: sourcing botanicals. Mintel.
  3. Zhang X, Shi E, Yang L, Fu W et al​. (2019). Gentiopicroside attenuates diabetic retinopathy by inhibiting irritation, oxidative stress, and NF-κB activation in rat mannequin. European Journal of Irritation. 17: 1–13.
  4. Raharivelomanana P, Ho R, Teai T and Meybeck A (2013). Pores and skin UV-protective impact of Microsorum grossum​ extract on human dermal fibroblast. Planta Medica. 79 (13): 1111.
  5. Bajguz A, Bąkała I and Talarek M (2015). Chapter 5. Ecdysteroids in Vegetation and their Pharmacological Results in Vertebrates and People. Research in Pure Merchandise Chemistry 45:121-145.
  6. Nejati, R, Kovacic D and Slominski A (2013). Neuro-immune-endocrine capabilities of the pores and skin: an summary. Professional Rev Dermatol, 8: 581-583.

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